History

Paridhan Chikan Exclusive

A delicate dance of threads, the art of Chikankari, is believed to have originated over four centuries ago in Shiraz (modern-day Iran). According to popular lore, it was introduced in India by the Mughal Empress Noor Jahan who was a connoisseur of arts and crafts. Chikan gained prominence during the reign of the Nawabs in Awadh who patronised it well throughout the 18th and 19th centuries by setting up embroidery centres and commissioning clothes for themselves and their household. Today, the craft of Chikankari has become synonymous with the city of Lucknow, with artisans, known as ‘Karigars’ painstakingly working to produce unique garments round the clock.

Owing to its widespread popularity, and enduring charm, it was in 1958 that the Late Kashi Nath Rastogi began his chikankari venture near the Chhota Imambada in Lucknow. It was a small unit which took care of the whole process – from buying the raw material to the cutting, printing, embroidering and finally stitching of the completed garment. Adapting to local preferences and influences, this venture grew as it incorporated Mughal, Persian, and Awadhi elements to create a unique blend of Chikankari clothes. Skilled artisans were deployed to produce intricate stitches patterns and motifs on a variety of fabrics, resulting in the success of the venture.

In 1972, the business expanded into a Joint family venture and came to be known as KK Chikan Art. The traditional chikankari included embroidery done only on white Muslin fabric but as time passed, the need for versatility came to be understood and soon chikankari started adorning different fabrics like silk, georgette, organza, chiffon, etc. While some believed that traditional embroideries like Chikan would not withstand the industrialization and trend of mass production, the art has stood the test of time and thrived as a symbol of Lucknow’s cultural heritage. In an attempt to revitalize this precious craft, Paridhan Chikan Udyog was started in 1984 by Madhu and Kishan Kumar Rastogi to entertain the growing demands of walk-in customers. This new firm manufactured Chikankari garments which combined the elegance of traditional craft and contemporary style, and sold their products both in retail and wholesale. These garments soon became ingrained in the very fabric of the city, with men and women both adorning them not just as morning/casual wear but also for special festive occasions. Owing to the continued relevance of Chikankari in the modern world and keeping in line with the demands of the modern wearer, Kamesh and Arpita Rastogi founded a new venture in 2018- the Paridhan Chikan Exclusive to cater to online shopping customers and expand their outreach in the global market. They hold a Master's Degree in Business Management and combined with the knowledge and experience of many generations behind them, their craft has evolved to produce a symphony of traditional threads with modern adornments such as badla, mukaish, pearls, beads and mirrors to ensure the perpetuity of Chikankari’s timeless appeal.
A generational legacy of skill and culture

Nestled in the lap of
history and cosmopolitanism, Lucknow can be best described as the sanctum
sanctorum of Chikankari. The legacy of this craft has been carried over
centuries by generations of skilled craftsman who have passed on their
knowledge from one generation to another to create timeless art. The process of
producing each garment is tedious and painstaking- firstly, the right quality
of fabric must be purchased to ensure that it is capable of holding the
stitches in place. Each fabric has its relevancy – cottons, muslins, and linens
are usually chosen in white or pastel colours as they are best suited to summer. Silk, chanderi, organza,
chiffon and georgette have the liberty to be chosen in any colour as they
usually become a part of formal, evening, or festive wear.

The next step is to carefully select the pattern which is to be printed on the fabric; the manufacturer carefully selects from amongst thousands of ‘khaaka’ (the wooden printing block) to create one harmonious design. Then comes the process of untangling the large spools of thread which are to be used for embroidering on the fabric. Different parts of the design are embroidered using different stitches; chikankari is believed to contain 32 stitches, each of which is unique in look and feel. A combination of stitches such as Tepchi, Bakhiya, Murri, Phanda, Jali, Turpai, Bijli, Ghaspatti, Kangan, etc. comes together to produce unique motifs which are unparalleled in beauty. After the embroidery is complete, the fabric is washed to make sure that no ink imprints are left, and that the colours of the thread remain steadfast. The fabric is then sewn, or left unstitched (as per the customer’s demand). Finally, the end product is ironed and packed in the desired manner and is ready to be sold to the customer. From the beginning till the end, several workers are engaged in the production of each garment, making the final product a culmination of the hard work of generations of artists.The chikankari industry owes a lot to the female artisans who are the custodians of a rich cultural heritage. They have mastered the intricate needlework, possessing exceptional skill and expertise in the craft. Chikankari is their source of livelihood and has provided women with the opportunity to become independent, enabling them to support themselves and their families. The women often sit together in groups to work on their embroidery projects; this coming together serves to foster a spirit of camaraderie and community engagement. Buying chikankari products is a way to not just create livelihood for the artisans but it is also to nurture the cultural heritage and handicrafts of our country.